As you can see it was once owned by a Newtownards man called G. Ivan Patterson.
Friday, July 31, 2020
Daft Eddie and the Smugglers of Strangford Lough; a Tale of Killinchy (1914 edition)
As you can see it was once owned by a Newtownards man called G. Ivan Patterson.
Wednesday, July 29, 2020
Tenant Right and Archibald M'Ilroy
This extract from When Lint Was In The Bell is insightful - M'Ilroy's activism around land reform means that he must have known about TW Russell (whose story I need to return to and complete). Nobody owned any land, just the landlords. Not all landlords were evil. But rural people had laboured and toiled and sweated over their few rented acres for generations and there was no greater desire than to actually own it, and to hand it down. Here's what Archibald wrote –
Looking back to my own school curriculum from '83-'90, I learned pretty much nothing about my own place, despite it being full of literature, language, story, tradition and music; no sense of value for where I lived. Anything of that nature I learned outside and after the classroom, so therefore I had perhaps been 'neutralised'. Perhaps others have in some way been 'radicalised'.
Tenant Right is a story that we all share. Nobody owned any land. Perhaps that is why it is not talked about. Maybe there is no real desire to have a common story.
Tuesday, July 28, 2020
Gellocks and Slatecutters
This is an earwig, but in Ulster-Scots its a gellock. Below is a woodlouse, usually known as a 'slater' across pretty much all of Ulster. But for me in the tiny sliver of the Ards Peninsula we always called it a 'slatecutter'. A Twitter friend who is researching these wee beasties directed me to the fascinating 'socchetre' etymology underneath.
Monday, July 27, 2020
'Old Tyme Gospel' evening, Sunday 12th July
All four days of broadcasts are also available, lots of excellent material. (pic above by Graham Baalham-Curry)
1798 Rebellion - the nuances of the 'Turn Oot'
Ballyclare author Archibald M'Ilroy's 1897 book When Lint Was In The Bell has two references to the 1798 Rebellion, on the cusp of the centenary. One is a reference to his grandfather who prayed for the 'misguided rebels' as well as the soldiers –
The other is M'Ilroy's own sense of the events of 100 years before, of oral tradition and also subsequent smears. His use of the term 'Turn Oot' is significant (which also crops up in the poetry of Cullybackey's Adam Lynn as this previous post shows - 'the turn oot fecht').
I had seen 'Turn Oot' used in more recent publications, and I must admit I had thought it might be an Ulster-Scots neologism. But not at all, it is a term with rich County Antrim pedigree. A few searches in the British Newspaper Archive confirm this.
1798 is not simple. It is more interesting than that.
Sunday, July 26, 2020
Who's your Evil Empire?
• In The True Believer, a seminal book on mass movements by social philosopher Eric Hoffer, Hoffer writes: “Mass movements can rise and spread without belief in a God, but never without belief in a devil. Usually, the strength of a mass movement is proportionate to the vividness and tangibility of its devil.” (quote from this article on Fee.org)
The extract below is from ATQ Stewart's The Ulster Crisis (published 1967) a book I had heard much about but had never bothered reading. I had no idea that the Pope wanted to seize the Belfast shipyards ;). In today's world which is gripped by global conspiracy theories, it seems apt to show that paranoias are a universal human condition. "It is doubtful if the Ulster Protestant had much desire to persecute his neighbour because of the way he worshipped, but he certainly had an excessive fear of ... the powerful and world-wide organisation behind him".
Saturday, July 25, 2020
"The latent aesthetic talent of the Anglo-Scot in Ulster" – Lynn Doyle, The Spirit of Ireland, 1936
Friday, July 24, 2020
Power to the People?
I was sent this video a few days back, it is interesting on a range of levels – most notably for an NI audience for how it presents the 'Glorious Revolution' of 1688–90. It falls into the tribal Catholic King v Protestant King simplification, but after that the script improves. Rethinking the hyper-local in an international context. We have had 'lockdown', maybe John Locke should be reopened. Authority v Liberty. The State v The People.
Wednesday, July 22, 2020
London Review of Books - discussions on Ulster-Scots, 1995
This post might as well begin by quoting Star Wars - "a long time ago in a galaxy far far away".
A quarter of a century ago, before the Belfast Agreement thrust Ulster-Scots into the harsh and retina-melting limelight, (mixed metaphor alert) or as a bewildered lamb thrown before bloodthirsty gladiators on the sandy fighting arena that is the Northern Ireland political-ideological colosseum, conversations like this were taking place among gifted and intuitive writers, who were engaging meaningfully and respectfully with actual residents and communities.
Brilliant discussion here in the London Review of Books letters page, among Tom Paulin, Michael Longley, Peter McDonald, James Fenton and my good friend Philip Robinson - click here to view.
Heaney could have graciously eased into this conversation. Quality, calibre, empathy and understanding. Far from the madding crowd. A long time ago in a galaxy far far away.
Tuesday, July 21, 2020
The love letters from Hugh Montgomery to Sara Maxwell, 1625 and 1631
From Hugh, First Viscount Montgomerie of Airds,
to Sara, Countess of Wigton
A proposal of marriage.
20th April 1625.
Right Honnorabill,
He whois growndis hath sildowm bein settillid by imagenarey contemplatiowns, nathir yit hath had his actiowns limettid by othir menis lavell, bot who by the practicall effectis of his awin personall actiowns is accustomat (by Godis spetiall fawour) to owircom his opposing deficultes, hes (finding his accustomat rest and liberte becom a stranger vnto him) stolin him self from cuntrei and attendantis to offir him self to yowr honnouris wew, that by conferant he may not onle ondirstan the reall effect of his onaccustomat distrubant wroght by the fleing fame of yowr ledyschipis raer wertws, that by conferant he may ondirstand how athir to atten to the combill of desayiris or support the trevarsis of his froneing fortowne. This intretting to be exkussid for that he hes thus passid the lemeitis of yowr honnouris prescriptiowne as for him who in kissing your honnouris is resolfeid to reman,
Youris honnouris affectionat servant,
Montgomerie.
Loghmaban, this 20 of April 1625.
To the right honnorable and his singular good ladei, the Cowntas of Wigtowne, theis.
...................
Hugh, Viscount Montgomerie of Airds,
to his wife, Sara, Countess of Wigton
Complaining of her long absence from him, and sending her some strong waters.
7th March 1631.
Right Honnourabill and Deirly Belowid Hart, —
By your letteris to your freindis heir it appeirris that ye ar informeid that I am seikly, quharof ye desayr to be aduerteised, for that if it war so, ye, my hart, would presently com hetheir what watheir soewir it war. I could hef bein bettir satisfeid that ye, my hart, had keipid that to your self, in regard that our best effectid freindis, by all that heiris of ws, ar (not without caus possessid) with a oppiniowne that ye, my hart, heth newir lekin or contentment of my companei, no quhillist I am in helth, and that, heirring of my seiknes, ye sould be so ernist as to presipitat your self to ane em[in]ent dangerus jornay for a weisseit in my siknes (a confortles weisseit to trewly effectid luferis). No, my hairt, what thois that ar so possessid with the first oppeneowne would mak of this otheir, I leif the sensour may be mad of it to your approweid iugisment; and for that my desayris ar that ye, my confort, sould so settill your self and your turns thaer that that sosiete and confort that we ar tayeid the on to the otheir might be with such a mvtull hermonei contenoweid and confermeid, that this so gros and raer ensampill of our extrawagencies might ewaneis; and that we both might approwf our selfis to be fathfull, lowing and trew confortteris on of anotheir durring the small remender that is reservid for ows (leist a wore insew to both our discontentis). I will be sattisfeeid, therfor, to beir with this grewows occasiowne of discontent for yowr absenc for a tym, that therin ye may mak such a full and fenall settilling of thois occasiowns ye hawe thaer, that we both may iniow the confort of on anotheirris compane. The respect that I hef to the doctour is for that he is a Mexwell, and heth good partis in heim. God hes so blissid me with the helth of the bodei (God mak me thankfull) that I hef no ows of medesin. My ewir hopfull confort, I persaw that ther is no hopis of settilling betuix the erill and yow, so as theis your hopfull dochteiris ar lek to hawe no confort from yow. Wald to God that I could suplei both your defectis. My hart, I hef sent your horc to yow, and such a on as I hop will gif yow content in all, safing in his cullowr; if nocht, he will both dissawe and discontent me. My harte, thaer is a miserabill and lamentabill accident fallin owt to auld Achinneill, that will inforc me to keip the gennerall assayis at Kragfergus the 24 of this instant; and I hef also on occasiowne of my awin that I most keip the assaysis at Downe, for the quhilk sittis the 4 of Apprayll, so as by Godis faworabill assistanc I intend to be at Downeskay the 10 of Appreill (so God grant a saf passag), to see quhat conclutiowne I can mak of that fekles bulding I hawe ther; and in attending, my hart, your pleisowr conserneing your presenc heir (quhar as ye ar so mvch langid for). As conserneing my actiowns in law, I dow nocht dowt ther ewent, altho my aduersareis dow postpone tyme and drayf me to chargeis. My hart, being tow weill acquanttid with your extraordenar spaer dayat, and that this lentren tym mvfis yow to a harder, I hef sent yow a small supplei of strong wattiris of Doctour Maxwell his making heir in your awin towne, and thay ar als good as anny in Londowne, intretting yow to mak ows of them (as, or if, ye respect me) to confort that stomak of yourris that hes a frawerd gardean. To conclud, if our nobill, generus, and most lowing sone, the Lard of Hempisfeill, or anny vtheir of your nobill freindis, by thaer conwoy hetherwart, will gres your jornay to theis powr cottagis ye hef heir, lat mestir James be aduertissid what ye wald hef downe; that sinc ye ar nocht destitude of prowesiowne heir, that ther may be so mvch sent to Downskay as ye thinkis nessisare for that place, for this will ansuer for it self. This, hopping that quhatsoewir is insert in theis laynis schall be constroweid in the best sence as commeing from him that, tho he be agetattid and tossed with ma[n]y dywers and most inportant motiowns, yeit and still in the singilnes of hart and all trew affectiowne as he is, so shall he ewir approwf him self, your ledeiships fathfull and ewir lowing husband to be commandeid,
Montgomerie.
Newtowne, this 7 of Marche, 1631.
To his right honnourabill and his onle and deirly belowid ledei, the Cowntes of Wigtowne and Veiscowntes Montgomere of the Greit Aerds, theis.
..........
Montgomery married Sara Maxwell in 1630. As the Montgomery Manuscripts, which were written by his grandson William Montgomery, unromantically say, Hugh –
“…brought her to Newtown, to fill up the empty side of his bed… but she not liking to live in Ireland… after some months stay, returned to Scotland, and did remain therein, which obliged his Lordship to make yearly summer visits to her, and to send divers messages (by his son George) to persweade her Ladyship to return and cohabit with him…”
She was not to be persuaded, so Sir Hugh sent her a page-boy called Edward Betty or Beattie - a dwarf with golden curly hair described as “….the prettiest little man I ever beheld. He was of a blooming damask rose complexion; his hair was of a shining gold colour, with natural ring-like curls hanging down, and dangling to his breast…”
Sara Montgomery died on 29 March 1636, aged 60, and was buried at Holyrood in Edinburgh. By now aged 76, Sir Hugh’s final known visit to Scotland was to attend her Sarah’s funeral, but on the way back his coach overturned and he suffered a number of injuries – “the pains whereof reverted every spring and harvest till his own fall”.
Monday, July 20, 2020
Human solidarity
My father has a cousin who now must be around 80 years old, who has spent most of her life working as a nurse in Loloma in rural north west Zambia. That's it marked on the map above. It is a long way from Portavogie where she grew up, and a long way from the Royal Victoria Hospital where she trained as a nurse. I have only met her twice as far as I can remember. Northern Ireland stopped being her 'home' many decades ago.
A man I know well, who is around the same age as her, was a doctor in Uganda when Idi Amin came to power in 1971. The UK Foreign Office advised all Britons to leave the country but he opted to stay on for as long has he could. As well as daily medical duties, he was a vocal opponent of 'Western' corporations exploiting Africa for profit (one issue he worked against is here). When he and his young family finally had to leave they just managed to escape across the border in the nick of time - he was hit on the head with the butt of a machine gun at the border crossing and he still bears the scar it left him with. Amin killed an unknown number of his own people, estimates range from 100,000 – 500,000.
As the 'West' descends into perhaps the worst race relations in living memory, it is worth remembering that human solidarity has frequently overcome the limitations of ethnicity, genetics and politics, for a higher purpose. May that continue.
Sunday, July 19, 2020
The Wigtownshire Creamery in Ballymoney, 1899
1905: A Kirkcudbright suicide dressed up as murder - the pistol found in Strangford Lough
Wednesday, July 15, 2020
The maverick Presbyterian Rev James Gordon, Scotland, and the Siege of Derry as an Ulster-Scots story
(Above - the Old Parish Church graveyard, Cardross)
In an obscure old graveyard on the banks of the Firth of Clyde is the burial place and eroded gravestone of a key figure from the Siege of Derry. Cardross was where King Robert the Bruce spent the last years of his life and died there on 7 June 1329. Cardross is also just a few miles from Old Kilpatrick where of course Scottish tradition says St Patrick was born and as a youth was kidnapped by slave raiders from Ulster.
• Early Life
Gordon's origins were in the Aberdeen area, where he was born around 1645. He graduated from King's College in Aberdeen in 1663 – which was pretty bad timing given that pretty much all of the Presbyterian ministers across Scotland and Ulster had been ousted from their pulpits by the State in 1661. But theological commitment wouldn't be an issue for Gordon as he manoeuvred his way through life.
• Minister, Elopement and Marriage
He was appointed minister at Glass (south of Keith) and was engaged to "the sister of a gentleman who served the cure of Moville" in Donegal. However, around 1667, he eloped "secretly in the night tyme with some accomplice" with a different woman! She was Helen Gordon, the daughter of John Gordon, the 8th Laird of Cairnburrow. They arrived in Londonderry where Bishop Robert Mossom gave him permission to preach at Glendermott Church. But Gordon was summoned back to Scotland where he was reprimanded and married Helen, but he was banned from ever preaching in the Moray region. Aberdeenshire Epitaphs and Inscriptions (1907) says this of him –
Rev. James Gordon, M.A., was ordained in 1666. On 23rd October, 1667, he was directed to be excommunicated for breach of promise of marriage, running off with another woman, going to Ireland, and deserting his charge. On his subsequently confessing in face of the congregation, the great scandal he had given to God's people by his "ryott" and ''unlawful procedour in marriage with Helen, daughter of John Gordon of Cairnburrow," the sentence was relaxed. He was not reinstated, however — being declared incapable of holding another charge within the diocese.
So Gordon moved to a different Presbytery and in 1671 he became minister of Coull, west of Aberdeen. However he was deposed from this pulpit due to "swearing, drinking, striking, denying his own subscription, and lying". He and Helen settled at "a farm in the Highlands" near Cabrach from which he operated as a kind of rogue freelance minister within the Presbytery of Alford. They summoned him to various Presbyteries to account for his behaviour, but by February 1681 he was set upon leaving Scotland again.
Inside the churchyard are some interesting tombs, especially those of the old ministers at the corner of the enclosure nearest the road. The oldest is in memory of the Rev. Robert Watson, who died in 1671, ... Adjoining this is the tomb of Rev. James Gordon who died in 1693, and his tombstone is well preserved, though the lettering is beginning to be obliterated –
"To the memory of Master James Gordon, minister of Cardross. Gordon fell by the stroke of all-conquering Death, and his distinguished frame lies by this tombstone. He proved by his cleverness that the sublime parts comprehend more wonderful things than belong to nature; high souled, in good things daring as the eagle, but as to praises indifferent, nor did the highest wisdom lie hid from the learned man. Too early did the joys of life above snatch him from us."
• Gordon features in Canon S.E. Long's 2013 book Famous Clergy (online here - page 53 onwards) where he describes Gordon as "a notorious reprobate".
• His grandson was the historian Rev James Bentley Gordon who published various histories of Ireland, including a pro-Crown account of the 1798 Rebellion which was published in 1801. His portrait is online here).
Saturday, July 11, 2020
The forgotten 'Boston Revolt' of the 'Glorious Revolution', 18 April 1689
Here is an earlier story of yet more transatlantic kinship. Not long after King James II had been effectively overthrown in England in November 1688 by the arrival of his Dutch son-in-law, Prince William of Orange, the 'colonies' of New England also revolted against James and in favour of William.
James II's place-man in New England was the authoritarian governor Sir Edmund Andros who had been in post since 1686. Tremors had been felt for some time - James II's brother and predecessor Charles II had revoked the charter of the Massachussetts Bay colony in 1684 because the citizenry refused to obey his decrees. So, when news of William's success reached America, the population of the region around Boston and Ipswich saw their opportunity. They organised themselves into provincial militias and began to arrest government officials.
An orange flag was raised on Beacon Hill; there was a public declaration supporting "the noble undertaking of the Prince of Orange". Regular readers might remember that I've posted before about the support for William and Mary in the fledgling Ulster-Scots settlements of Maryland and their November 1689 Address of the Inhabitants of Somerset County (previous post here).
O 20 May 1689 the people of Boston published their first direct address to William (link here); on 6 June 1689 they published a second (link here). Congregational ministers were to the fore in opposing the Anglican establishment. And on 31 May a similar rising took place in New York State, led by Jacob Leisler (link here).
There is a very big story to untangle here, and to connect with events on this side of the Atlantic. From Brixham to Boston to the Boyne has a certain ring to it.
Discovering forgotten international dimensions to what are usually seen as narrow local events are game-changers in understanding, in lifting our view from our own Northern Ireland goldfish bowl to a far wider ocean.
• Signage pics from HistoricIpswich.com
Friday, July 10, 2020
A 1939 curmudgeon - the new "rude contrast' of the "huge red barn of corrugated iron"
Ah, the red shed with a round tin roof, an icon of rural Ulster. We are building a small version at home just now. A landmark of tradition, a magnificent example of built heritage as the two photos here from the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum show.